How to light a home studio
When someone begins to dabble in photography, one of the recurring themes that always arises is how to light properly a small (or not so small) home studio.
The most immediate is trying to use two hoses with the bulbs more powerful than believing that they will find a blinding light, but soon we realize that what blind us to the camera are dark. However, the fear of flash , usually due to ignorance, will lead to more creative solutions and almost always worse.
The next attempt usually resort to a pair of industrial sources of 150 W, but this is going to pose some problems:
- The light is totally orange, although digital is easy to solve with the white balance.
- The light is very hard, so that the shadows are too.
- Dan is very hot, so we can not put anything in front to soften, or photograph anything, the risk of burning.
- And worse, the power is still low, so we will be forced to use slow speeds (that will give us problems if no movement) and apertures (that will leave us with no depth of field).
150 W If not enough, what if we tried 500? Practically only increase the problem will get heat to the point of doing dangerous. The heat generated will force us to separate more lights, which light gained power base will lose over distance. I had occasion to see a teammate before placing a still life of these bulbs on, and with the shirt starting to smoke, so that is a solution that completely advise against. The bulbs used in photography are usually at least 800 W each, and yet the light is scarce and the temperature reached by the study it can get unbearable.
If we use continuous light, because it is easier to handle than the flashes, the solution must come from the hand of the energy saving lamps. This allows us to generate more light without raising the temperature in a dangerous and uncomfortable. Study existing systems of cold light, and industrial sources that replace halogens. For example, American Photo Imp sells cold light screens from 89 euros for the smallest model of 36 W for small still lifes, to 357 € 330 W screen, valid for photographing people.
If we opt for a homemade solution, as proposed in a tutorial canonists , keep in mind that these lamps can cause us a problem with color. Halogen bulbs have their emission spectrum shifted to the orange, but is complete and is easily corrected with the white balance. Instead fluorescent tubes and light bulbs do not tend to green by a shift of the spectrum, but because they emit certain wavelengths (or do so with little intensity) as magenta. This makes it impossible to see those colors, the light that there can not be reflected.

In the picture on the left shows the emission spectrum of a particular fluorescent and emits light as only a few colors. We can see several other spectra of light sources on the page Galidakis IN .
Currently there are some lamps in which it has been a very complete emission spectra, and are therefore the most suitable for photographic use. There are manufacturers that include graphs of emission between the characteristics of their bulbs, and are available online. Consúltalas. And when in doubt, look for lamps with color temperature around 5,000 K.
Better use the flash
But the best solution, of course, is the flash light.
- The color is right.
- No heat problems.
- You can use filters and diffusers without fear. You can even tint the light color you want with gelatin filters.
- And above all, a small battery-powered flash light output offers much more than two halogen lights of 1,000 W.
The main drawback is that we see the effect of light until they have made the picture, making them more difficult to use. They are also more expensive than a pair of industrial sources.
But do not be scared. The studio flash units have a small light bulb known as modeling light, which will help us to see how it will be the lighting and shadows. In small compact flash this bulb does not exist, but some, like the Metz 58 AF-1 have a feature that simulates base give little bursts of flashing powerful, but very straight.
In any case, the problem in digital photography is not too large, as we see the results immediately and it's easier than ever to make a correction and re-shoot.
As for the correct exposure when the flash is placed outside the chamber will be unable to calculate is the light that will be, but only cost us a few shots to find the correct values.
To learn how the flash I recommend consulting the flash of course Hugo Rodriguez , and learn to use it and make the most of, make sure to visit Strobist , or adaptation Strobist in Spanish . You will be surprised how easy it can be to use the flash when you know how.
A small studio to photograph objects
If our intention is to build a small study in which pictures of objects (clocks, figurines, jewelry ...) we find that in fact the easiest lighting is that of a flash.
We use a softbox, ie a small white-walled enclosure, within which we place the reason. Sufficient to trigger a flash at the ceiling of the softbox to light to penetrate throughout the interior, creating soft lighting, uniform and without shadows.
Any external flash will help us this. If TTL You can use it automatically from the shoe of the camera, but even an old flash work only in manual mode, it is not difficult to find the combination of diaphragm and aperture to get the correct exposure. With this setup as simple easy to achieve aperture of f / 8 or f/11 to give us good depth of field.
And if you think a softbox expensive, you can always resort to "something" as the tent toy sold at Ikea for six euros and that, simply cover the soil with something white to blue to offer excellent results.

Extending the study
When you want to photograph is larger than the softbox will have to start thinking about expanding the team. The same soft, even lighting "list" can be achieved with two flashes equipped with two windows (even with umbrella) and placed at 45 ° on the subject.
Light pattern is easier than we can assemble and requires no modeling light or lights measure. Both should illuminate the same, and we can adjust the exposure by trial and error as before.
Also, when we need a more creative light, we can always put another way, but explain the different patterns of light, and how to measure, is beyond the scope of this post.
Working with people
But surely the most difficult is to try to photograph people. For an inanimate object, even lit with two hoses, we can put the camera on a tripod and make the exposure as long as necessary, to close the diaphragm. But a person will move, so we have to use high speeds. Unless you want to just stay focused the eyes and the rest of the face, we also need apertures and in addition, people often incomodarse with two powerful lights, hot guns pointed at their face. In this case, more than ever, the flash is essential.
However, the two windows at 45 degrees does not usually give good results and further work is the lighting scheme. For this I recommend revisiting Strobist blogs, and Fotopunto where you from lighting easier with a single flash, to much more elaborate productions.




Thanks for accepting.
Carlos
Hi, I want to start an online retailer of clothing (shirts, pants, ...) and I need a team of lighting that gives a warm acceptable but affordable. Mp which would you recommend me. Thank you very much. A greeting Albert.
If you're making separate pieces of clothing will not need much. With a couple of studio strobes with umbrella 250 W, and a fund should be sufficient.
For portraits of people would be nice full body and power up additional space.
You can look at American Photo Imp are in Asturias and light kits are a good price, or look on eBay.
Hello! a doubt, like Albert I have my own online store, but children's clothing, I read that you recommend buying a couple of studio strobes with umbrella 250 W, my question is: is better to use the flash umbrella or Window? Is that some people have told me that with 2 windows is perfect and one more thing, I also say to put a light under the table where the clothes support to prevent shadows and thus do not need photo retouching What do you think? I do not drive anything about photography or Photoshop that I can buy for a professional finish without touch???
Thank you very much in advance.
Regards
Antoinette, professional finish without touch does NOT exist. Any professional picture you see, has some kind of touch, and especially as more professional. Especially in advertising is exaggerated, what you see as a picture, they may be five or six separate retouched, mounted and re-tweak.
However, if it helps to have less light to remove shadows, but then you need a white translucent table. That I sold already prepared as tables Still , some with lights and brackets included. But I think the best solution for shooting clothing. The clothing is your thing as it is on, not resting on the table, and you'll need mannequins.
On the other hand things have shade. You can remove it with backlight, but then it will appear that are floating around that and you'd have to create a false shadow in Photoshop. Rather than eliminate control I would look to make it enjoyable and not a black manchurrón, and that you get playing with the position of the flashes and diffusers.
As for the windows, let you control light better, because it "escapes" nothing behind, and whether the site is not reflected in some rods out of the umbrella. For what you want do not think you find much difference and are more expensive and bulky.
Very good explanation, is appreciated. I have solved many doubts.
Thank you.
Hello!
I [B] [E] [A] of canonists ...
I enjoyed your explanation, very easy to understand, and detailed ... plus the links you post.
It has helped me a lot, thanks!
Thank you. I'm glad you find it useful
grasias for your answers
Hey, how about! I'm starting in photography, and I put together a study, the problem is the lighting, you could recommend me any reflector or something, is that still pueeo not spend much and want to do with what I have! will wait your answer, Thanks
As reflector usually gives good results, and it's cheap, a Styrofoam panel. But much depends on the "quality" of light you want. If the panel forras foil will be harder, for example.